Jordan is a magical country. With many beautiful sights to see and explore.  However, most of us do not have a month to spend in one country and fully immerse yourself in the wonders of the sights and the local culture. Keeping that in mind we have built an itinerary for exactly 10 days by car. This itinerary is built so that people would rest, get some excitement and see some of the most beautiful wonders of Jordan.

“This way. Use the stairs on your left”

They also do not forget to invite every passing tourist to sit down and enjoy the cup of tea. However, most do not and miss a great chance to get a glimpse of life the ancient people used to live by and listen to the stories they have. And for those few lucky to learn, if they are willing to listen and have an open mind.

We happily agreed to their invitation. However, we were not as open and kind as these two Bedouins. We had some tainted thoughts and reservations. We had to ask impolitely “How much is the tea?” to which they said, “It is free or if you want you give what you feel”. And so without a thought that they will earn anything they shared with us their hospitality. While we were sitting down and getting comfortable one Bedouin said “One is happy while giving, not taking. Instead, people, these days want to eat, but not to give. The Government took Petra and gave us nothing. Some moved to a city, but I don’t like cities, the mind-set of the people is different. I like it better here. But I don’t worry about the locals, I worry about Petra. As you can see there is a lot of wrong things. This is a holy place, we live in it, we live from it, we learn from it, we must respect it. You see, I’m local, I see it differently.”

After a few cups of tea, they have shared their dinner with us. It was a very simple but delicious meal. With a homemade or so I think Pita bread. And from what I can guess a broth of chicken peas with local spices.

While we ate, talked and enjoy the serene feeling one of the brothers kept on repeating “There is no need to rush, there is plenty of time here.” for which we had no reply. Tho now when I write it all goes down to the perception we create. And each and every one of us has our own. I think this quote perfectly sums up what I mean “No two people see the external world in exactly the same way. To every separate person, a thing is what he thinks it is — in other words, not a thing, but a think.” Penelope Fritzgerald

Surprisingly it took us a while to get to the traditional questions. But nonetheless, we go there.  One of my friends asked them “How old are you?” the reply we received was a surprise for us. I do not know why as this is not the first time I heard such a reply. But coming from them it was a surprise. “4” he said. “It doesn’t matter how old I am”. Knowing that he did not want to reveal his age we followed up with another question. “Do you live here?” a simple and innocent question to keep the conversation going. To which we knew the answer already. But not the whole of it. “Yes” he replied. “I do not like living in the city. The people mentality is different they are all restricted. Here I am free” He spills some water. “No worries.” he says and continues his though. “People in the city they think only about themselves. But in life, you have to give to receive.”

Lastly after chatting about things that I can’t remember any more. We asked, “Where did you learn English?”. One of them replied “From life, not from school. One must learn everything from life.”

As you can see their philosophy is simple. However, to reach this level it requires time to be perfected to reach such level. One must learn from life. So it happened that when we finished the conversation that the last bit of the hike I was so deep in my thoughts that I had no memories how we got to the spot where we stood above the treasury looking at the world wonder and deeply in my thoughts feeling a bit down. As I felt that I was a step away from opening the doors to something remarkable.

The Dead Sea

The time to truly enjoy the wonders of the sea is mid-spring or fall. When it is still warm. It is not a large streak of water and it is shrinking by the year. No living beings live in the Dead-sea. The secret to it. A large concentration of salt. That kills everything and anything. There are few places to have an experience that is out of this world along the shores of this sea. You can either pay a fee for the 5 start dwellings. Usually around 20-30 euros.  Or a public access beach. The price is very similar – 20 Euros. However, if clean water to wash away the salt is not an issue to you. You can either swim in the wild spots or at the free public beach. However, it is advisable to wash up the salt the moment you finish swimming.

The place is perfect for a few hours. Otherwise, there is nothing around on foot to see and experience.  Unless you have a car you can check out the hot springs, the Jesus baptism place,  Madaba a city of churches and Mount Nebu a place where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land.

Jerash

A city where people come for a few hours. A city where tourist visits only one spot the Ruins of Jerash. It is believed that it is built by the Alexander The Great. But developed by the Romans to the grandiose that it was once.  However,  the city declined following a devastating earthquake in 747 and the following years later, and its population shrank to about a quarter of its former size.

Apart from a brief occupation by a Crusader garrison in the 12th century, the city was completely deserted until the arrival of the Circassians from Russia in 1878. The site’s archaeological importance was quickly recognized, sparking more than a century of excavation and restoration and the revival of a new town on the eastern flank of the ruins. 

Now, these ruins are the only thing that attracts visitors to the city. However, there is nothing else besides these magnificent Roman and Greek ruins that are only second to the ones found in Rome.  As for the city, it has its own charm a wild and untamed kind.

Amman

Amman a city where getting in is difficult. On route is chaos and the pollution is heavily in the air. However, the great temple of Hercules once stood there. And you can still find his last 3 fingers and an elbow that still radiate the greatness it once had.

Besides that, the town of Amman is perfect for souvenir hunting. Those who are keen to look beyond the first row of street vendors can find in the basements the workshops of handmade knives, carpets, and other goodies.

And let’s not forget that all kind of cuisines from all over the Jordan region are all hidden in Amman.

I am of course talking about the back entrance of Petra. Even now it is advised to go with a local guide. There are no signs marking the way and many Wanderers have already lost their way. Requiring local Bedouins who know the land, like their own hand, to go and look for these poor fools.

It took us a better part of the day to reach the back entrance to Petra, through the wild trails, magnificent panoramas, and ancient sites older than Petra itself. We started the hike from our dwelling in Little Petra and our kind host took upon himself to lead us, share his knowledge of the place and show the beauty of the land. Our guide who took us through Little Petra and all the way across the wilderness of Petra desert was dressed in a brown tunic and dress shoes. It seemed like he was strolling through his garden rather than going on a hike through mountains. Everywhere he looked was his home.

He led us through the trail that only he knew and told us stories of his family. How they used to live. How some still continue to live the Bedouin way and how some have integrated into the city life. And some who live in the city but can’t handle the city way and the city way of thinking that every then and now they go back to the caves or deserts to be alone with the nature to connect back with the ways it has been for centuries.

He led us and we followed. Until we reached a couple of women selling scarfs on the way. I can admit we bought some. I was not very keen on having hard negotiations because I saw in my loved one eyes the desire to buy them and the unwillingness to part. He showed us the remains of the game that none remembers exactly how to play, etched in the stone. He showed us stones that can be grinned and used as make-up and also shared the water collection secrets of the ancestors.

And at the end he took us through the trail that is etched at the side of the cliff leading to a spot were temple carved in the stone is revealed. There to be observed in awe. Standing with an aura that pulsates congratulation traveler you finally saw a wonder.

The view took us by surprise we felt like kids getting a toy we wished for.

Once we got released from the spell of the temple we set off. 990 steps down to the center of the city. Were our guide showed us the constructions of the Nabateans, Romans, and Constantinople. How each has built on top of the previous culture and how the city grew in its magnificence. With intrinsic water canals and sewer system running below the city.

The day was spent gloriously with plenty of new experience, knowledge, and spirituality.

The desert is getting cold

It is the final day in Wadi Rum. A place where I got smitten, I got enchanted, I got spellbound by the place of beauty and greatness.  However, all the good things to be fully enjoyed has to come and pass. Especially, if you want to have the longing for the place after you leave.  Thus we packed our manta into the sacks, got it on our caravan and set off to the edge of the desert – to the Wadi Rum village. Were the kind locals took care of our carriage.

With a happy heart and a sad mind, we had to leave this beautiful place.  We drove through the Kings Highway – the most scenic road in Jordan. To find the lost city of Petra. Fabled to be beautified by the ancient people of Nabatean.

The lore of Petra

It appears that a nomadic tribe known as the Nabateans began migrating gradually from Arabia during the sixth century BCE.  Over time, they abandoned their nomadic ways and settled in a number of places in southern Jordan, the Naqab desert in Palestine, and in northern Arabia.  Although Petra was inhabited by the Edomites before the arrival of the Nabateans, the latter carved grandiose buildings, temples, and tombs out of solid sandstone rock. They also constructed a wall to fortify the city, although Petra was almost naturally defended by the surrounding sandstone mountains.

Building an empire in the arid desert also forced the Nabateans to excel in water conservation. They were highly skilled water engineers and irrigated their land with an extensive system of dams, canals, and reservoirs.

The buildings in the stones where so intricately carved so magically that all the cultures that came after the Nabateans decided to keep the city for themselves and build their own pieces into it.  Creating a spectacular sight, with engineering marvels and artistic beauty.

However,  Petra’s importance declined as sea trade routes emerged, and after a 363 earthquake destroyed many structures. The Byzantine Era witnessed the construction of several Christian churches, but the city continued to decline.  The city that used to house tens of thousands of people became a city hidden in the heart of the mountains and known only to the living nomad tribes of Bedouin.  It remained unknown to the world until it was rediscovered in 1812 by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt by share luck.  Once again became the center of the world, the marvel of architecture and the mystery of the world that is still now.

The destined meeting

When we reached Petra we stayed in Little Petra with a 17th son whose father was the first to accept travelers into his cave.  Our host moved out of the cave for a simple reason – a wife from the city. But on a regular basis, he still goes to his cave to spent time away from the noise and the twisted minds of the people.

After resting for a while and having tea with the host we took off to visit Petra. Before we left the host showed us a special trail to follow for the best view on the first day.

As in any place, you might notice some scams going on. The locals offer you a free ride which “is included in the ticket” for the whole 10M. After which they ask you to pay money to continue the ride.  And even if you pay to have a horse ride it is not worth it. Simple because you have a 1.2km of a beautiful hike through the gorge that opens up to the most beautiful view – the treasury.

Even the amount of people that were there were not an issue. The marvel is simply out of this world.

The walk through the lane of the history of many many cultures leaves you wondering about the meaning of life.  As all the magnificent spots and expeditions there has to be something strange happening.

While we were trekking through the secret trail to the top of the mountain we have met 2 local Bedouins living at the top of the mountain.

Who shared with us some tea, lunch and a few words of wisdom. Which led us to some deep thoughts of over own.

We were so entranced in the thoughts and the secrets of life that the Bedouins shared.  Which I will share in the separate entree!

The way back

Once we came back from our thoughts we were already on the way out and off to eat the best kebab and shawarma on the whole trip.

From misty red dunes to painting like passages dotted with rocks and mountains. To see the ancient hieroglyphics left by Nabataeans, the fabled T.E. Lawrence House, the canyons and naturally formed phenomena the arks, wind polished stones, and most importantly the serenity that the desert brings.

When we left our camp the visage of the desert was glimmering red in the morning light of the sun flanked by an avenue of cliffs. The surrounding cliffs looked like large rocks formed from wax that are constantly melting during the day and hardening during the night. Creating spectacular formations and valleys that morph into a magnificent gallery of sound and illustration. The hollowness of the desert at times dampers all sounds around you and at other times with the help of the wind magnifies all sounds around you – from the sand grinding against each other to the rustling of the leaves to the sound of the conversation.

No matter the spot we went to explore the serenity and the beauty followed us.

The final moment, the final stop we had was to say goodbye to the sun on one of the wax-like mountains. We overlooked the valley waiting for the sunset enjoying the sunlight playing on the red sand with a witchery uncommon to the modern world. We sat on the rock, admiring the glorious luster of the desert. The dale fell confessional quiet. I had an alleluia moment then and yearned for a time when the world was young. However, I was more than happy for the friends and girlfriend I have now to share the beauty of the world.

With a sigh, I got up and forged my way towards our guide who has been waiting by the carriage to take us back to the camp for one final night in this magical desert. It was a place with an eldritch beauty all of its own. I resolved to return one day to this paradise.

Author & Photographer

Simonas Radkevicius – https://www.instagram.com/sim_rad/

Photographers

Arune Meistaite – https://www.instagram.com/arunemei/

Mantas Alisauskas – http://ctdots.eu/

P.s. Pictures are all originals. If you would like to copy or use them you have to get a permission from the authors.

P.s.s. Other entries in this trip can be found here: 

• Part 1 http://numi.world/jordan-series-adventures-in-aqaba/
• Part 2 http://numi.world/jordan-series-wadi-rum-the-hidden-desert/
• Part 4 http://numi.world/jordan-series-petra-the-lost-city/
• Part 5 http://numi.world/jordan-series-the-secret-smugglers-route-to-petra-2/
• Part 6 http://numi.world/the-wonders-of-the-jordan-north-dead-sea-jerash-and-amman/

But can you imagine living during those times or any following them? Such as during the Edomites era who are believed to have built the first port in Aqaba. Which led the region trade route development. How interesting it would be just for a minute to experience those times. Or during the Babylonian times when the Aqaba witnessed probably the growth period.  Becoming a kind of a central trading hub between Africa and Asia.  Or during the Greek times when the Alexander the Great stormed through the known world. It was described by a Greek historian to be “one of the most important trading cities in the Arab World”.

No wonder it was such a sought-out place by the ruling countries of the world during their times.  After the Greeks, the city changed hands a few more times. The Nabateans, Romans, Byzantines who built probably the very first purpose-built church. Which later fell to the Islamic conquests. Such as Ummayads, Abbasids, and Fatimids. Closer to our times before it was known as Jordan it also belonged to the Turkish which with the help of the Bedouins and T.E Lawrence fell to the British hands for a short period of time before it was passed to the newly created Jordan Kingdom.

It was the place that gave us the first few great and not so surprises. Bigger than the gasoline station toilets.

The Quarters

We have arrived at the ancient city of Ayla(Aqaba) after 400 KM voyage during the dead of the night. The quartermaster has been expecting us to be there for the last couple of days. Luckily we were not late and our rooms were ready for us.  Who knew that explorers from the Arab peninsula region ratings are so different from our European. 7.9 out of 10-star rating is more like 3 or 5 back in the old world.

Our quarters luckily had the place for our carriage and the feed to keep it rested and full.

2 out of 5 members were the first time on such voyage. For me, it was nothing new. Exploring the new world across the ocean I have lived in worse places. On the road or even in the barns. However, for my companions, this was a shock. The housemaster obviously was facing some hard times the main hallway was dusty and the furniture old and on the verge of breaking. While our room was missing 3 beds and some cockroaches were running on the floor. As to our question where are the missing beds. The custodian pulled out three old dusty, very dirty and probably gory mattresses.

We were not able to identify if it was blood or just some paint on them. Luckily we had our translator with us since our custodian did not speak a speck of universal language. With the help of a translator (Google was his name), we have managed to barter for clean blankets to cover the mattresses.

While I and my girlfriend went to have a rest for the night. The 3 other companions decided to test out the local inn for the much heard Arabian coffee and food. Which being inexperienced explorers led to food poisoning and diarrhea for the next day.

Breakfast

The following morning we were woken up by the magical sound which turned out to be a prayer going throughout the whole settlement.  Since we were woken up by this magical sound we have decided to look for the inn that could serve us the much renowned local delicacies. The (name of the place) did just that. Being in front of a very important mosque Al-Sharif Hussein Bin Ali built for their king it just couldn’t serve any bad food.

Exploring The Deep

After breakfast, we took our carriage for around 7 km and went out to explore the world that is under the water at the place called Japanese Gardens.

We heard there is a hidden city under the water that sank a while back and no one was able to find. Surprisingly we were not able to do it also. However, the two locals that were living at the beach rented their gear from the campsite.

Which is not cleanest I would say. But the cheapest for sure. One small issue we were not sure to what hygiene standard they were up. For sure not the highest.

What the guys showed us was something a few of us have ever seen. An underwater life. That is out of this world, but plagued by the pollution and fighting to survive.

From what the local wise man told us the place used to be teeming with wildlife. Friendly sharks, turtles and other creatures of the sea that come to nest in the coral reefs.

The guys at Go To Jordan have a pretty detail map with all the diving and snorkeling sites – http://www.your-guide-to-aqaba-jordan.com/aqaba-dive-sites.html. The one above that we went to was the Japanese Gardens.

The End Of The Day

After having our curious mind sated we spent the rest of the day exploring Ayalas (Aqaba) local spice traders, food stalls and craft stores to see what could be brought back home.

We found a trade table that was owned by the Bedouin (at) who traded in tea and spices from whom we bought our first spices to take home and 10 steps away we bought the first carpet that we took home.

The best part of all was the surprise the locals gave to the foreign explorers – they accepted us as friends that arrived from a faraway land. With warmth, smiles, and kindness. Very few places offer such a greeting.

Next stop Wadi Rum!

P.s. Pictures are all originals. If you would like to copy or use them you have to get a permission from the authors.

P.s.s. Other entries in this trip can be found here: 

• Part 2 http://numi.world/jordan-series-wadi-rum-the-hidden-desert/
• Part 3 http://numi.world/jordan-series-wadi-rum-the-exploration/
• Part 4 http://numi.world/jordan-series-petra-the-lost-city/
• Part 5 http://numi.world/jordan-series-the-secret-smugglers-route-to-petra-2/
• Part 6 http://numi.world/the-wonders-of-the-jordan-north-dead-sea-jerash-and-amman/

Jordan – a country, not the basketball player. A sandy piece of land but magnificent none the less. With a few patches of green in the north.  With people that are so friendly beyond belief. The food. The food is magical. Hummus, Falafels, Babaganoush, seafood and tea. While the local customs are so different that it requires a separate post. The friendliness, kindness, and generosity is something you won’t find in many countries.  While the monuments are littered in the country are as grandiose as they are ancient.

Our trip started on April 4th when I bought the tickets for Arune as a birthday present. The actual trip took place almost 9 months later. Over this period I have planned the whole itinerary, found 3 more people to join us to get the cost of traveling lower and found how to save on Visa.

Jordan is a place with an ancient culture that is deeply intervened in today’s high paced, globalized culture. Which in turn makes Jordan that more special.

We could feel it the moment we arrived there on November 16th. A time in the year that is on the verge of starting a rainy season. A season when flash foods become a norm.

We flew from Vilnius. A 4 hours flight with Ryanair. I think you do not need to know the agony cramped up seats and the annoying blue color invokes the moment you get on the plane. It was especially interesting that when we flew over Israel it is required to sit down and put the seatbelt on. Just in case the plane needs to make sudden maneuvers, in the end, we were flying over the war zone. No matter how the news places it.

We landed in a spacious but small international airport of Jordan just outside the Amman. Which is perfect since we rented our car prior and went straight to Aqaba avoiding the craze of Amman city center.  While at the airport it is paramount if needed to exchange money not to do it at the first spot. Leave first the no mans zone and exchange near the car rental spots/exit zone. The exchange rate will be better there. Do not exchange everything you have. Do it somewhere in the city where you can get much higher rate.

The car we rented was fairly cheap only 20$ a day for 10 days. Plus insurance for 40$. Funny enough our car provider did not have an office in the airport thus a driver came to pick us up. Tho while driving us to our car we had a dark thought. That it is fairly easy to kidnap people (from any airport) just say I am here to pick you up and drive to your car. Bam instant trust and without thought, you are already driving somewhere.

Our car that we received was a bit old. With some scratches and some wear and tear. Tho we found out only later in the trip that our tires wear so smooth that it basically had no traction with the road. Luckily all was fine with us and we had almost zero potential scares. One key advice when renting a car – film the car from the outside and the inside. Otherwise, a small crack that you missed will be charged when you return the car.

Once we got the car the first stop was 1km or so away. At the gas station. Boy oh boy, the toilet was magnificent. You have these massive industrial doors that open up into this huge space. Covered with brown colors. Some are just old rust some are bird shit. In the corner of the room, there is a cubicle for men and women the so-called toilet. Men toilet had only one working dirty full of shit toilet. While the walls I was not sure if it was shit or just old brown color. The smell, well it was like “heaven”.

The second surprise in the gas station was that there is no food for sale. Only candies and chips, and drinks. Meaning no dinner for the late arrivals.

The rest of the night trip took us through the main highway all the way to Aqaba. Be warned on the highway before and after a village or a city there are bumps. Massive ones and unmarked. Letting you fly sky high if you do not know about them.  Luckily for us, we flew few times only. And arrived in Aqaba with few bruises. However what we saw after left us speechless.