The Rivers Of Time

You know those places that you see in movies when the main actor goes on an adventure to find the lost city somewhere in South America deep in the jungles that are nearly impossible to trek through and is full of danger? And every time they have to pass the rivers that are untouched by the modern civilization, and you know that any second either a local tribe, wild animals, or some paranormal thing that has never been seen before might jump out and attack. Well… This we did not experience. However, the experience, the feeling, the perception we felt was just like described above. It was on a spiritual level, when you let your imagination run wild and enjoy the trip in the setting you set yourself in your own mind. However, these surreal feelings were induced by the views we saw during our most recent trip to the National park of Ignalina, Lithuania. Canoeing across the rivers and lakes that are connecting the local villages in this region since ancient times.

We canoed 14 km out of 30 km in rivers called Būka, Srovė and Almaja, which are flowing mostly in the forest and the feeling that embraced right from the start that we were on a path to find the lost city of El Dorado. The river banks looked wild and brazen. Full of wildlife that was hiding from the unexpected intruders in their daily life. When we were lucky sometimes we could even see tracks of animals such as bores or beavers (easiest to recognize). The glide because it was more of a glide than a hard arduous paddling was slow and steady, without needing to push ourselves or get out of a canoe. The river embraced us like a mother does and took us all the way down the stream towards the first lake Baluošas.

The lake and river system that has naturally developed allowed for many villages and cities to establish themselves in the region. Since it offered a fast and good connection, fairly good protection and abundance of food. To canoe in this region is to experience the olden kind of life. So when we arrived at the first lake we passed through many ethnographic villages. If you do not know what is an ethnographic village than you are in luck. I got a definition for you! An ethnographic village is defined as a rural settlement which maintains traditional, historical, ethnic cultural characteristics specific to the particular region. These characteristics include traditional architecture, farmstead planning, relation to the natural landscape, as well as traditional life, including farming traditions, arts, and crafts.

Once we crossed Baluosas lake, we had to stop by a water mill to carry our canoes to the other side of the mill. At the same time, we used this resting time for a swim in roaring water sprays.

Almost every lake and river that we passed through had a preserved ethnographic village that just induced us further and deeper into our imagination to believe that we have traveled in time.

The second part of the trip before we reached our camping destination was through another small river that had lots of summer houses built on the banks. But not in the annoying nouveau rich. But more with the local kind of setting. Reminding river villages in France.

The contrast through the day was overwhelming. I would say we have traveled through time and dimensions. Starting in 1530 looking for the lost city of El Dorado to the period when people had a simpler life. Fishing, farming and fighting off the invaders. When villages used to still keep the doors unlocked and the balance between nature and human was still in place. And finally to the fairytale-like scenic views.

As a matter of fact, when we landed at the shore of the lake Almajas we were attacked by the hungry, blood-craving local tribesman of mosquitos. We had to build our camp real fast and set up the fire system to keep these tribesmen away. So that we could enjoy the sunset in serene tranquility.

The Mirror Lakes

The second day started with an enervating heat. Which was perfect (in my opinion) to spend most of the day on the mirror-like lakes. Where the sun lights are constantly reflected back and boil you to look like a boiled crab.

After we reached Linkmenas lake, we parked our canoes on the shore of around 170meters height hill – Ladakalnis. The view from the top was worth stopping by, allowing to see a handful of lakes.

The rest of the trip we mainly traversed across the lakes. Only stopping to cool down from the scorching heat in cool waters of the lake. We tried to stop and explore one of the ethnic villages. Sadly we couldn’t find any entry to the village without trespassing on private property. Thus we cooked our launch at the footbridge and went on to explore the rest of the lakes and the scenic views.

Anyone and I mean anyone that has a family or would like a relaxed trip canoeing through safe waters, scenic views, and thousands of years of history this place is a must. Our final stop was at the Paluse a small touristic village where we have rented our canoes from.

Authors

Simonas R.
Arune M.

P.s. Pictures are all originals. If you would like to copy or use them you have to get a permission from the authors.

Day 1

4 days, 350KM by train and ~ 65KM on foot. A team of 4 and a dog took on an adventure to explore one of the national parks (a part of the national park of Samogitia) in Lithuania. The civilized world was left behind and a nomadic lifestyle was adopted. We have visited 200-year-old trees in the ancient “king woods”, ancient hillforts, long-forgotten magical places and the deepest rarely visited by people ancient forest. But all of that from the start.

5 am and already awake the train is leaving soon. Just enough time to grab breakfast and head out to the train station. We were lucky enough that we bought our tickets a day in advance since the train was fully booked.

We arrived to Plunge at around 11.20 a city from which during the age of Soviet Union thousands of people were driven out in train carts used for animals to Siberia. From here we started our 4 days around 65KM hike.

The weather was not perfect. Cloudy and with a light drizzle. The first part of the hike was nothing special we had to pass through the city and reach the park first. However, because we were finally free from the chains of the concrete jungle we were very excited.

We took it slow stopped a lot to rest and eat the heavy load we had with us. Probably the most interesting thing throughout the first day besides the camping grounds was the strange mushrooms we have found. Looked like eggs that just hatched but made from mud.

The first night camp had beautiful views around if you could ignore the campsite that looked like a battlefield just recently fought with the sky gray and lightly dripping raindrops, trees chopped midway and the sap dyed in red looked just like blood seeping through, the meadows and campgrounds plowed that almost not a single spot was left to camp at and tables and benches broken to never again to see the smiles of the campers.

But if you look past the destruction you can see that the beauty is still there. The lake appeared as if by magic as we crested the ridge. It was shaped like a perfectly flat disc of metal. Unruffled by wind or rain, it was vault still and restful.

Day 2

The second day started similarly to the first – cloudy. The first stop was a small wooden church. It reminded me of the churches in fantasy books or movies.

The second stop was an ancient 200-year-old tree that used to be part of the kings’ forest. With the branches shaped like lightning forks.

While we were at it we have decided to enjoy ourselves to the full and cut through this ancient “Kings Forest”.

We walked through an umber-brown, ancient forest. It reeked of age. Its woody incense was from centuries of snapping branches crashing to the forest’s floor and rotting silently. Every sprawling tree we passed under reminded me of a watchful guardian, a silent sentinel of the groves. We decided to venture deeper into the tangled heart of this primeval forest. We hoped that it would lead us to the next stop.

After crossing the forest we arrived at the crossroad with an ancient wooden sword stuck in the ground. It was a sign that we were walking towards the correct direction. Before finally getting out of the forest we stumbled upon the beaver home which required us to do some improvised crossing to not disturb it.

Finally, upon escaping the forest we have arrived at a clearing near the lake which was our second sleeping spot.

Day 3

Upon the sunrise, we were already awake and ready to hike again. This day included 2 mystical places through very beautiful countryside.

The first place was a hillfort that used to have a castle and settlement nearby you can still feel the mystical times when visiting the site.

Second place was a religious pagan labyrinth that is said to have magical/meditative powers to the people who walk in those labyrinths.

Followed by a short hike to the campsite where the rest of the day pleasantly surprised us with a terrific sunset followed by a huge thunderstorm. But we were so exhausted that we fell asleep almost instantly when the thunderstorm started.

Day 4

The last day was the easiest of all. Visited a soviet union nuclear museum. I suggest visiting to all, who is in this area it still has the feeling of the dread that the nuclear bombs and Soviet mindset can bring to you. Cold, damp and depressing.

Authors

Simonas R.
Arune M.

P.s. Pictures are all originals. If you would like to copy or use them you have to get a permission from the authors.