I am of course talking about the back entrance of Petra. Even now it is advised to go with a local guide. There are no signs marking the way and many Wanderers have already lost their way. Requiring local Bedouins who know the land, like their own hand, to go and look for these poor fools.

It took us a better part of the day to reach the back entrance to Petra, through the wild trails, magnificent panoramas, and ancient sites older than Petra itself. We started the hike from our dwelling in Little Petra and our kind host took upon himself to lead us, share his knowledge of the place and show the beauty of the land. Our guide who took us through Little Petra and all the way across the wilderness of Petra desert was dressed in a brown tunic and dress shoes. It seemed like he was strolling through his garden rather than going on a hike through mountains. Everywhere he looked was his home.

He led us through the trail that only he knew and told us stories of his family. How they used to live. How some still continue to live the Bedouin way and how some have integrated into the city life. And some who live in the city but can’t handle the city way and the city way of thinking that every then and now they go back to the caves or deserts to be alone with the nature to connect back with the ways it has been for centuries.

He led us and we followed. Until we reached a couple of women selling scarfs on the way. I can admit we bought some. I was not very keen on having hard negotiations because I saw in my loved one eyes the desire to buy them and the unwillingness to part. He showed us the remains of the game that none remembers exactly how to play, etched in the stone. He showed us stones that can be grinned and used as make-up and also shared the water collection secrets of the ancestors.

And at the end he took us through the trail that is etched at the side of the cliff leading to a spot were temple carved in the stone is revealed. There to be observed in awe. Standing with an aura that pulsates congratulation traveler you finally saw a wonder.

The view took us by surprise we felt like kids getting a toy we wished for.

Once we got released from the spell of the temple we set off. 990 steps down to the center of the city. Were our guide showed us the constructions of the Nabateans, Romans, and Constantinople. How each has built on top of the previous culture and how the city grew in its magnificence. With intrinsic water canals and sewer system running below the city.

The day was spent gloriously with plenty of new experience, knowledge, and spirituality.

The desert is getting cold

It is the final day in Wadi Rum. A place where I got smitten, I got enchanted, I got spellbound by the place of beauty and greatness.  However, all the good things to be fully enjoyed has to come and pass. Especially, if you want to have the longing for the place after you leave.  Thus we packed our manta into the sacks, got it on our caravan and set off to the edge of the desert – to the Wadi Rum village. Were the kind locals took care of our carriage.

With a happy heart and a sad mind, we had to leave this beautiful place.  We drove through the Kings Highway – the most scenic road in Jordan. To find the lost city of Petra. Fabled to be beautified by the ancient people of Nabatean.

The lore of Petra

It appears that a nomadic tribe known as the Nabateans began migrating gradually from Arabia during the sixth century BCE.  Over time, they abandoned their nomadic ways and settled in a number of places in southern Jordan, the Naqab desert in Palestine, and in northern Arabia.  Although Petra was inhabited by the Edomites before the arrival of the Nabateans, the latter carved grandiose buildings, temples, and tombs out of solid sandstone rock. They also constructed a wall to fortify the city, although Petra was almost naturally defended by the surrounding sandstone mountains.

Building an empire in the arid desert also forced the Nabateans to excel in water conservation. They were highly skilled water engineers and irrigated their land with an extensive system of dams, canals, and reservoirs.

The buildings in the stones where so intricately carved so magically that all the cultures that came after the Nabateans decided to keep the city for themselves and build their own pieces into it.  Creating a spectacular sight, with engineering marvels and artistic beauty.

However,  Petra’s importance declined as sea trade routes emerged, and after a 363 earthquake destroyed many structures. The Byzantine Era witnessed the construction of several Christian churches, but the city continued to decline.  The city that used to house tens of thousands of people became a city hidden in the heart of the mountains and known only to the living nomad tribes of Bedouin.  It remained unknown to the world until it was rediscovered in 1812 by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt by share luck.  Once again became the center of the world, the marvel of architecture and the mystery of the world that is still now.

The destined meeting

When we reached Petra we stayed in Little Petra with a 17th son whose father was the first to accept travelers into his cave.  Our host moved out of the cave for a simple reason – a wife from the city. But on a regular basis, he still goes to his cave to spent time away from the noise and the twisted minds of the people.

After resting for a while and having tea with the host we took off to visit Petra. Before we left the host showed us a special trail to follow for the best view on the first day.

As in any place, you might notice some scams going on. The locals offer you a free ride which “is included in the ticket” for the whole 10M. After which they ask you to pay money to continue the ride.  And even if you pay to have a horse ride it is not worth it. Simple because you have a 1.2km of a beautiful hike through the gorge that opens up to the most beautiful view – the treasury.

Even the amount of people that were there were not an issue. The marvel is simply out of this world.

The walk through the lane of the history of many many cultures leaves you wondering about the meaning of life.  As all the magnificent spots and expeditions there has to be something strange happening.

While we were trekking through the secret trail to the top of the mountain we have met 2 local Bedouins living at the top of the mountain.

Who shared with us some tea, lunch and a few words of wisdom. Which led us to some deep thoughts of over own.

We were so entranced in the thoughts and the secrets of life that the Bedouins shared.  Which I will share in the separate entree!

The way back

Once we came back from our thoughts we were already on the way out and off to eat the best kebab and shawarma on the whole trip.