With constantly good weather it is a perfect hiking island throughout the year. This guide will outline all you need to know for having an awesome hiking trip

How to get to Madeira

There are only 2 ways of getting to the island. 

By boat – [As of 2020 because of COVID it was temporarily closed.] There is 1 ferry route running between Madeira Islands and Portugal operated by 1 ferry company – Porto Santo Line. The Funchal to Porto Santo ferry crossing operates weekly with a scheduled sailing duration of about 2 hours 30 minutes. 

The cost is around 222 dollars per person.

By plane – The easiest and the most flexible way. Almost all cheap airlines fly to Madeira. You can see the locations from where the direct flights happen and which airlines fly to Madeira by visiting flight connections website.

Prices can vary anywhere from 60 to 500+ dollars per person.

How to get around the island 

There are 4 main ways of getting around the island. 

By taxi – There are few companies offering services. You can get local yellow taxis on the street but is the most expensive option. Uber is a cheaper option, but Bolt and Taxiin apps offer the cheapest options of them all. However, only Taxiin can deliver a driver almost anywhere on the island. 

By car – There are a few places where you can rent a car from including Wizz Air or Ryanair pages. If you feel like supporting local business (prices as good as Wizzair but car delivery and drop off wherever you want) you can try xtracars. 

By bus – This is mostly good for the Funchal area. Getting around the island is complicated and only a few buses go throughout the day. They are good at getting to the spot and overnighting but not really exploring the island in one go. 

On foot – Not on the main roads but via mountains. It is the cheapest option but the most time demanding one. The upside? It is green and has incredible views.

Places to get hiking gear on Madeira

There is really just one city that you can get all your gear needs and that is in Funchal – the capital of the island. There are two main places you can get all the gear you need. 

My favorite and one of the cheapest ones is Decathlon. They have high-quality products for cheap prices. You can find the store at Azinhaga do Poço Barral nº 14, 9000-638 Funchal. 

O Bordão is the island’s only dedicated outdoor gear shop. The range is limited and prices aren’t exactly low, but it’s just the place to solve a kit emergency. You can find the store at Avenida Arriaga 33-47 Galerias São Lourenço, Loja 35, R/C, 9000-060 Funchal.

Best spots to base yourself for hikes

The best spot for any hikes would be Funchal. It is the largest city on the island that has everything you need in one spot. Also, there are some exciting hiking trails that start right in Funchal, such as Levada do Curral and Pico Alto e Poiso via Levada das Cales. 

However, if you are running away from the noise of the cities these spots are quite remote and more difficult to get around without a car but the views and small village vibes make them worthwhile. 

Seixal is a beautiful little village with a black sandy beach. They have few restaurants and natural lava pools. It’s quiet and remote and is perfect for anyone who is looking to run away. It really is a little heaven on earth. 

Ponta Do Sol is another small picturesque village. It’s the type you would imagine when people say Portugal and a colonial village. It has around 100km of trails that can be started from the village, making it ideal for hikers. There is an active digital nomad community if you ever need company or people to go on a hiking trip as well.

Machico – a magnificent little village with an artificial sandy beach perfect for surfing and hiking. For those who want a larger village than a few hundred people. 

Cost of living and hiking in Madeira

It can be both expensive and cheap to live in Madeira. It all depends on your desires. But it is possible to find a place to rent from 600 dollars but the rent price can go as high as 1800 per month. Usually, rent will be the biggest deciding factor in how much your stay in Madeira will cost (unless you decide to eat out all the time). Other costs include:

• Food (if you are cooking) is around 380 USD per month for 2 people.
• Restaurant prices per meal for 2 are between 25-60 USD. Small village restaurants tend to be more expensive than the capital.  
• Taxi price is roughly 1km = 1.20 USD. 
• Basic gear from Decathlon – tent, mattress, sleeping bag, utensils and other minor hiking items will be around 250 USD. Good for 2-7 day hikes. 
• Car rental prices are around 480 USD per month with insurance included.

Mine and girlfriend’s personal spending per month is:

• Rent – 715 USD
• Food – 380 USD
• Hiking – 250 USD

Disclosure – We work from Monday till Friday.  

Weather in Madeira 

Weather in Madeira is a constant spring with a twinge of summer and a little bit of late fall. However, don’t be fooled by it. You can get all three seasons in one day. The weather in the mountains changes quickly from sunny to cloudy to rainy all on the same day. In winter weather can get below zero in the mountains.

Gear required for day hikes in Madeira

For day hikes I would advise taking these essentials, plus a few extras depending on your hiking level. 

• A daypack
• A wind jacket
• A rain poncho
• Snacks
• Pants
• Trail runners or hiking shoes
• Socks
• Walking stick
• Water
• Paper map
• Phone with a map – https://www.gaiagps.com/
• Warm fleece

Other suggestable items you can find on my other post I wrote 14 daypack hiking essentials. 

Gear required for multi-day hikes in Madeira

Gear for multi-day hikes I would advise include all the above plus the ones below: 

• A backpack instead of a daypack 
• Tent
• Sleeping pad
• Sleeping bag
• Cooking equipment
• Thermo pants for sleeping
• Knife
• Rope
• Food
• First Aid Kit

Key Info To know Before Hiking Madeira 

• Before going on a hike make sure you know your campsite locations. It is illegal to wild camp wherever you want and there is actual mountain police looking for illegal campers. Fines go from 240 to 1200 USD. Official campsites can be found on the Madeira Camping website and also if you would like to do wild camping you can request permission from the government. 
• Check if the trail is opened and safe to hike on walkmeguide website. There are also lots of webcams around the island that can help you decide whether it’s a good moment for a certain hike regarding weather conditions. 
• Should you take a guide? It’s a yes and no. If you are doing an easy hike, you can do it alone. If you’re planning to do something more adventurous and you are a beginner hiker it is always advisable to have a guide. A great guide is Joao Let’s Go Hiking. 
• Trash should be carried with you all the time and then thrown out at the nearest trash bin. 
• Inform someone where you are going, your planned itinerary and also when you are coming back.
• Be prepared for all types of weather.

Type of hikes available on the island 

Day trails

There is over 2000km of hikeable trails and to list them all would take ages. But luckily someone has done most of it already and you can find all the trails here. However, I would like to share with you some of my most favorite, beautiful, and exciting hikes right here. 

Exciting and easy hikes

Trail map: Ponta de São Lourenço

Ponta de São Lourenço is the easternmost point on the island and one of the most popular hikes on Madeira. It’s not overly long or difficult but offers incredible views for most of the way. The hike is a 7.5km return along the long thin edge of the peninsula. 

• Length – 7.5 km
• Elevation gain – 411 m
• Route type – Out & back
• Start and Finish  – ER109, Estr. de São Lourenço, 9200-044 Caniçal, Portugal 

Trail map: Levada do Moinho to Levada Nova

This moderate loop starts near the Church of the Lombada and offers beautiful views over the valley and farmland. The highlight of this hike though is the waterfall which you can enjoy after some steep climbing. The 14.5km loop is not entirely secure, you’ll need to be sure-footed and careful on the edges, but it’s a popular trail used by families as well. 

• Length – 14.5 km
• Elevation gain – 1005 m
• Route type – Loop
• Start and finish  – Casa Paroquial 24, Ponta do Sol, Portugal

Trail map: Levada Nova via Ribeira Brava

As an alternative and more difficult way of reaching the Levada Nova waterfall, this 23.5km return hike begins near Rebeira Brava. This is a much more challenging option but offers views across the town and towards the ocean. You will need to make sure you’re well prepared for this hike, but the waterfall at the top is worth the effort. 

• Length – 23.5km
• Elevation gain – 1208 m
• Route type – Out & back
• Start and finish – Caminho da Apresentação, Tabua, Portugal

Fun and moderate difficulty hikes

Trail map: Levada do Paul – Levada da Bica da Cana

This skinny, return trail is high up above Canhas. It skirts around the mountains offering beautiful views across the farmland, towns and coastline of southern Madeira. The moderate walk is most well known for its incredible wildflowers with photographers often flocking there when the weather is right.

• Length – 16.5 km
• Elevation gain – 540 m
• Route type – Out & back
• Start and finish – ER209, Ribeira da Janela, Portugal (32.74013950702969, -17.102444256812635)

Trail map: Caminho Terra Cha

This incredibly scenic hike is less popular than some of the others mentioned on this list but is equally stunning. The 4.7km moderate trail on the northeastern part of Porto Santo Island. The return hike is good for a range of fitness levels and offers an incredible dramatic trail against steep cliffs. There is a safety barrier built for much of the walk, as the steep drop can seem quite daunting otherwise. 

• Length – 4.7 km
• Elevation gain – 422 m
• Route type – Out & back
• Start and Finish – ER111, Vila Baleira, Portugal (33.0967503075845, -16.314617307480802)

Rewarding and hard hikes

Trail map: Pico do Arieiro – Pico Ruivo

This is arguably one of the more beautiful hikes on the islands. It’s located right in the center of Madeira north of Funchal. The 11km return hike begins at the incredibly stunning lookout of Pico do Arieiro. The panoramic views overlook beautiful rugged mountains with skinny trails navigating the jagged ridgelines. While the steps on this hike offer steep drops, there are safety rails for much of it. It’s definitely a rewarding hike that you won’t forget.

• Length – 11 km
• Elevation gain – 1180 m
• Route type – Out & back
• Start and finish – 32.7356377270961, -16.928882672069395 

Trail map: Ponta do Sol a Ponta Delgada

For a truly demanding hike that requires an entire day of your time, this point-to-point trail crosses the Madeira island from Ponta do Sol to Ponta Delgada. It’s an epic 30km hike that is quite difficult and takes in all of the best views across the entire island. There are some steep sections, as well as plenty of steps. If you’re looking for a challenging but rewarding day out, this is one of the best Madeira hiking trails.

• Length – 30 km
• Elevation gain – 1976 m
• Route type – Point to point
• Start – 32.7356377270961, -16.928882672069395

Trail map: Vereda da Terra Chã

This challenging 14km return hike is on the northern side of the island near Seixal. It requires a steady climb through a forest that can be tough on your legs, but you finally get a view of the valley at the top. It’s a lesser-known hike so if you prefer quieter trails, this is one for you.

• Length – 14 km
• Elevation gain – 1351 m
• Route type – Out & back
• Star and finish – 32.7356377270961, -16.928882672069395

Trail Map/Guide – São Vicente to Ponta Do Sol (My Own Custom Trail)

This is one of the personally created custom trails by me. It is a demanding hike that requires an entire day of your time. It’s a challenging 30km hike that is quite difficult and passes through some of the most beautiful levadas on the island. There are steep sections, plenty of tunnels, jaw-dropping cliffs, and certain rarely walked trails, not on the official trail lists. Some sections have no safety rails, have tight walks and are best done with good weather. Since strong winds or rain can get you off balance and off-trail. If you’re looking for a challenging, a bit dangerous but rewarding day out, this is the one.

• Length – 30 km
• Elevation gain – 1400 m
• Route type – Point to point
• Start – 32.780090, -17.046796
• Hike Responsibly!

Ponta Do Sol to Ponta Do Sol (Custom Trail/Guide In The Works)

Another custom trail. It’s a challenging 30km hike that is quite difficult. Starting at 0 sea level and rising to 1400m. It is a 3 to 4 hour climb before you reach the highest point of the hike. There are sections that go via old trails that are long overgrown and difficult to find. It is best for hikers that know how to read the compass, map and nature in finding the trail and direction to hike while on the overgrown trails. But once you go above the clouds you understand that this trail will be simply a jawbreaker. 

• Length – 30 km
• Elevation gain – 1400 m
• Route type – Loop
• Start – 32.780090, -17.046796
• Hike Responsibly!

Multi-day hikes

There are a few official multi-day trails. However, the best part of Madeira is that you can plan your own multi-day hikes via routes that you think would be the most interesting. One thing to be aware of while planning hikes is to be sure you know where to pitch the tent. Because the island has such rugged mountains with steep cliffs it is difficult to find camping spots on the way. It is best to know where exactly you will camp before you set out. 

Trail map: Rota Circular de Madeira 

If you want to take the entire island on a hike, then this trail is for you. The epic trail is over 300km and forms a loop from Santa Cruz on Madeira. It’s only recommended for very experienced hikers, who have experience in multi-day hikes and thru-hikes. It makes a loop around the island in a clockwise direction and then makes a trip out to the easternmost peninsula as well. It requires a lot of planning. If you don’t want to hike on the road and have high-quality gear it is best undertaken in a group of two or more.

• Length – 308 km
• Elevation gain – 14, 381 m
• Route type – Loop
• Start and Finish – 32.68929771385336, -16.785848443304147 

Trail map: MADEIRA ISLAND ULTRA TRAIL 

A completely unique multi-day hike that is great for experienced hikers who know the island well, this four-day hike is known as the Ultra Trail. It’s a tough hike that stretches for 115km from Porto Moniz to Machico crossing many of the island’s highest peaks. It requires a bit of planning so you know where to camp along the way and you will also need some skills in navigation as well. You should ensure that you’re fully prepared with the correct gear because the trail crosses exposed ridgelines and tough ascents. Otherwise, for the fit and experienced, this offers an incredible multi-day trek on Madeira. 

• Distance 115 km
• Elevation gain – 8000 m
• Route type – One way
• Start and finish – Porto Moniz to Machico

Trail map: CAMINHO REAL 23: THE ‘ROYAL PATH’ OF MADEIRA

Another tough multi-day hike is along the royal path or the Caminho Real 23. It was originally a route commissioned by the King of Portugal in the 19th century and was essentially a road or passage designed to be used for carrying items and for sleds pulled by strong oxen. The trail circumnavigates the island, with a few diversions inland. It stretches for 170 kilometers with an incredible 8000 meters of vertical gain on the route, meaning that it’s super tough. Some parts of the original route are unpassable or in need of repair, so you need to find alternative detours around some sections. This means that it’s best reserved for experienced hikers who have skills in navigation. Otherwise, you can enjoy stunning views of the coastline for much of the way making the six-day trek worth it. 

• Distance 170 kilometers
• Elevation gain – 8000 m
• Route type – Circular
• Start and finish –  Funchal

Caminho Calheta to Seixal (Custom Trail/Guide In The Works)

This one is personally created by me. It is a moderate difficulty hike. Passing through the only plateau of the island. With an overnight sleep on it. It starts lightly and increases in difficulty over time. The most difficult part of the whole hike is not getting up to the plateau but descending. It is around 10km in length of decent almost vertically the whole way. It becomes especially hard when it is windy and rainy. 

• Distance – 24 km
• Elevation gain – 1400 m
• Route type – Point to Point
• Start and finish

Caminho Machico to Ecamineada (Custom Trail/Guide In The Works)

This is another one personally created by me. Crossing the island from north to west. Claiming 2 peaks. Arieiro and Ruivo 5th and 3d highest peaks in Portugal. It requires a bit of planning so you know where to camp and get water along the way and you will also need some skills in navigation as well. You should ensure that you’re fully prepared with the correct gear, because the trail crosses exposed ridgelines and tough ascents.

• Distance – 45 km
• Elevation gain – 1842 m
• Route type – Point to Point
• Start and finish

Hey Everyone! 

I hope you enjoyed my blog post as much as I loved living and hiking in Madeira. As always, if there’s anything that needs clarification or something to add just leave a comment below. If you want more content about the island please leave a comment below!

Related Posts

• Greece E4 Peloponnese Trail Guide
• What Is A Daypack And How To Choose A Correct One
• 14 Daypack Hiking Essentials

For centuries Ushguli has been the seat of power. Set in the topmost reaches of the Enguri valley beneath the snow-covered massif of Mt Shkhara (5193m), Georgia’s highest peak. It is here, during the golden age of Georgia, Tamar the Great, the Queen of Georgia had the summer and winter castles. Even now you can still find the towers still standing protecting the region. However, not much else of the castle is left.

The majority of the Ushguli of today is in essence 4 villages combined into one. The final destination for the few who walk the old way from Mestia. It is old and almost unchanged since the time the Tartars ruled the world. The moment you see it you can feel like it is a portal to the time that was. However at the same time slowly it is being changed to the time that is now. And the only thing that never truly changes are the mountains surrounding the village. Like guardians trying to protect this esoteric place.

It is here that was revealed that the ancient Svan (ethnic group) gods pantheon never disappeared. It stayed. It just changed its name to different god names to survive the changing of the period. For example “Lamaria” Svan goddess and grain fertility, dairy cattle and needlework patron changed its name to St. Mary. Or another example is God “GHMERTI” who is now called Father God by the Christian. For those who are interested to read more about the ancient religion of Svan can start here http://www.caucasustravelguide.com/georgia/art-culture-and-history/literature/georgian-mythology.html.

Thus when you walk and especially when you talk with the locals you can still feel the old gods’ presence. Some more than the others. If you get the chance to stay at Surrealist artist Pridon Nijharadze house (Guest & Art House “Gamarjoba”. Tel – 599209719). Where his brother converted his gallery into a sleeping place for the tourists. There you can feel that through his paintings he is still in tune with ancient times.

The old town or the part of Ushguli  –  Chazhashi village that is protected by the Unesco. Is a charming place where you can truly feel like you are back in time. Walking unpaved roads, with pigs and chickens and horses running around and shit and dirt mixed together. This easily helps to imagine how in the olden days these narrow streets were busy in the morning and in the evening when farmers, hunters, and other craftsmen would be coming and going back home. To a house built of stone with very small windows and usually, a third of the area was penned off for the animals, which lived in the hut with the family. While the fire is constantly burning inside the center of the hut, with the air permanently eye-watering smoky.  But the most striking feature was that life in Ushguli was mainly self-sufficient. And the traders they could expect where in summer when the snow that covered passes has melted away and then only for a couple of months. 

However, now, everything is changing, slowly, but changing. But for now, it is still a place of wonder. Where you can be a witness to this change. Where you can experience the old and the new. Where you can see a child of 6 years old riding a horse across town and at the same time cars passing by. You can see the older generation riding horses to shepherd the cows while playing with the phones. Where you can see ancient houses with satellites and tv. Where the older people still uphold the ancient traditions and are trying to keep the younger one to not forget it.

It will stay like that for a while, slowly transforming. Not to fast, since 6 months of the year are often impassable. Thus the changes will not happen immediately but over time with the improvement of life in the region.

It is a place where the old world meets the new one. 

Authors

Simonas Radkevicius – https://www.instagram.com/sim_rad/

We have heard that the Mani Peninsula is home to the descendants of Dorians and Spartans. A place where you can still feel a little bit of the old world. Perfectly preserved by the difficult to navigate terrain. Until recently Mani villages were only reachable by sea.  However, these days there is a narrow and winding road along the west coast from Kalamata to Akrotainaro the pointed cape, which is the southernmost point of continental Greece) before it turns north toward Gytheio has been built. Allowing the tiny bits of the old world to slowly trickle away.

Thus before all of it went away we decided to brave this region and explore it. Few adventurers venture further than the Diros caves. Where you can still find the underworld ferrymen to take you on a boat across the caves. However as in the stories so it is here you have to bring enough coins to pay for the passage to the other side. From here on south the further you go the wilder the region gets. With a rugged coastline, sleepy fishing coves, fortified villages, and wild beaches.

But the real magic starts a bit further than what you have traveled so far. At the Cape Tenaro. Where the Aegean sea separates from the Ionian Sea. Where the entrance to Hades is hidden where the temple of Poseidon is in. It is a spot through which Hercules dragged the three-headed dog Cerberus as one of his 12 tasks. It is a place that has a feeling where the world truly ends. A half-hour walk takes you to the lighthouse at the cape itself. This is the southernmost tip of mainland eastern Europe; directly south lie the sands of Libya.

For us, it was as far as we got. However, if you thought this try going east on the east coast.

The locals say the mountains drop dramatically straight down into the sea with few scattered villages. And only the very few go there for the last wilderness of Mani.

Related Articles

Jordan is a magical country. With many beautiful sights to see and explore.  However, most of us do not have a month to spend in one country and fully immerse yourself in the wonders of the sights and the local culture. Keeping that in mind we have built an itinerary for exactly 10 days by car. This itinerary is built so that people would rest, get some excitement and see some of the most beautiful wonders of Jordan.

“This way. Use the stairs on your left”

They also do not forget to invite every passing tourist to sit down and enjoy the cup of tea. However, most do not and miss a great chance to get a glimpse of life the ancient people used to live by and listen to the stories they have. And for those few lucky to learn, if they are willing to listen and have an open mind.

We happily agreed to their invitation. However, we were not as open and kind as these two Bedouins. We had some tainted thoughts and reservations. We had to ask impolitely “How much is the tea?” to which they said, “It is free or if you want you give what you feel”. And so without a thought that they will earn anything they shared with us their hospitality. While we were sitting down and getting comfortable one Bedouin said “One is happy while giving, not taking. Instead, people, these days want to eat, but not to give. The Government took Petra and gave us nothing. Some moved to a city, but I don’t like cities, the mind-set of the people is different. I like it better here. But I don’t worry about the locals, I worry about Petra. As you can see there is a lot of wrong things. This is a holy place, we live in it, we live from it, we learn from it, we must respect it. You see, I’m local, I see it differently.”

After a few cups of tea, they have shared their dinner with us. It was a very simple but delicious meal. With a homemade or so I think Pita bread. And from what I can guess a broth of chicken peas with local spices.

While we ate, talked and enjoy the serene feeling one of the brothers kept on repeating “There is no need to rush, there is plenty of time here.” for which we had no reply. Tho now when I write it all goes down to the perception we create. And each and every one of us has our own. I think this quote perfectly sums up what I mean “No two people see the external world in exactly the same way. To every separate person, a thing is what he thinks it is — in other words, not a thing, but a think.” Penelope Fritzgerald

Surprisingly it took us a while to get to the traditional questions. But nonetheless, we go there.  One of my friends asked them “How old are you?” the reply we received was a surprise for us. I do not know why as this is not the first time I heard such a reply. But coming from them it was a surprise. “4” he said. “It doesn’t matter how old I am”. Knowing that he did not want to reveal his age we followed up with another question. “Do you live here?” a simple and innocent question to keep the conversation going. To which we knew the answer already. But not the whole of it. “Yes” he replied. “I do not like living in the city. The people mentality is different they are all restricted. Here I am free” He spills some water. “No worries.” he says and continues his though. “People in the city they think only about themselves. But in life, you have to give to receive.”

Lastly after chatting about things that I can’t remember any more. We asked, “Where did you learn English?”. One of them replied “From life, not from school. One must learn everything from life.”

As you can see their philosophy is simple. However, to reach this level it requires time to be perfected to reach such level. One must learn from life. So it happened that when we finished the conversation that the last bit of the hike I was so deep in my thoughts that I had no memories how we got to the spot where we stood above the treasury looking at the world wonder and deeply in my thoughts feeling a bit down. As I felt that I was a step away from opening the doors to something remarkable.

The Dead Sea

The time to truly enjoy the wonders of the sea is mid-spring or fall. When it is still warm. It is not a large streak of water and it is shrinking by the year. No living beings live in the Dead-sea. The secret to it. A large concentration of salt. That kills everything and anything. There are few places to have an experience that is out of this world along the shores of this sea. You can either pay a fee for the 5 start dwellings. Usually around 20-30 euros.  Or a public access beach. The price is very similar – 20 Euros. However, if clean water to wash away the salt is not an issue to you. You can either swim in the wild spots or at the free public beach. However, it is advisable to wash up the salt the moment you finish swimming.

The place is perfect for a few hours. Otherwise, there is nothing around on foot to see and experience.  Unless you have a car you can check out the hot springs, the Jesus baptism place,  Madaba a city of churches and Mount Nebu a place where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land.

Jerash

A city where people come for a few hours. A city where tourist visits only one spot the Ruins of Jerash. It is believed that it is built by the Alexander The Great. But developed by the Romans to the grandiose that it was once.  However,  the city declined following a devastating earthquake in 747 and the following years later, and its population shrank to about a quarter of its former size.

Apart from a brief occupation by a Crusader garrison in the 12th century, the city was completely deserted until the arrival of the Circassians from Russia in 1878. The site’s archaeological importance was quickly recognized, sparking more than a century of excavation and restoration and the revival of a new town on the eastern flank of the ruins. 

Now, these ruins are the only thing that attracts visitors to the city. However, there is nothing else besides these magnificent Roman and Greek ruins that are only second to the ones found in Rome.  As for the city, it has its own charm a wild and untamed kind.

Amman

Amman a city where getting in is difficult. On route is chaos and the pollution is heavily in the air. However, the great temple of Hercules once stood there. And you can still find his last 3 fingers and an elbow that still radiate the greatness it once had.

Besides that, the town of Amman is perfect for souvenir hunting. Those who are keen to look beyond the first row of street vendors can find in the basements the workshops of handmade knives, carpets, and other goodies.

And let’s not forget that all kind of cuisines from all over the Jordan region are all hidden in Amman.

I am of course talking about the back entrance of Petra. Even now it is advised to go with a local guide. There are no signs marking the way and many Wanderers have already lost their way. Requiring local Bedouins who know the land, like their own hand, to go and look for these poor fools.

It took us a better part of the day to reach the back entrance to Petra, through the wild trails, magnificent panoramas, and ancient sites older than Petra itself. We started the hike from our dwelling in Little Petra and our kind host took upon himself to lead us, share his knowledge of the place and show the beauty of the land. Our guide who took us through Little Petra and all the way across the wilderness of Petra desert was dressed in a brown tunic and dress shoes. It seemed like he was strolling through his garden rather than going on a hike through mountains. Everywhere he looked was his home.

He led us through the trail that only he knew and told us stories of his family. How they used to live. How some still continue to live the Bedouin way and how some have integrated into the city life. And some who live in the city but can’t handle the city way and the city way of thinking that every then and now they go back to the caves or deserts to be alone with the nature to connect back with the ways it has been for centuries.

He led us and we followed. Until we reached a couple of women selling scarfs on the way. I can admit we bought some. I was not very keen on having hard negotiations because I saw in my loved one eyes the desire to buy them and the unwillingness to part. He showed us the remains of the game that none remembers exactly how to play, etched in the stone. He showed us stones that can be grinned and used as make-up and also shared the water collection secrets of the ancestors.

And at the end he took us through the trail that is etched at the side of the cliff leading to a spot were temple carved in the stone is revealed. There to be observed in awe. Standing with an aura that pulsates congratulation traveler you finally saw a wonder.

The view took us by surprise we felt like kids getting a toy we wished for.

Once we got released from the spell of the temple we set off. 990 steps down to the center of the city. Were our guide showed us the constructions of the Nabateans, Romans, and Constantinople. How each has built on top of the previous culture and how the city grew in its magnificence. With intrinsic water canals and sewer system running below the city.

The day was spent gloriously with plenty of new experience, knowledge, and spirituality.

The desert is getting cold

It is the final day in Wadi Rum. A place where I got smitten, I got enchanted, I got spellbound by the place of beauty and greatness.  However, all the good things to be fully enjoyed has to come and pass. Especially, if you want to have the longing for the place after you leave.  Thus we packed our manta into the sacks, got it on our caravan and set off to the edge of the desert – to the Wadi Rum village. Were the kind locals took care of our carriage.

With a happy heart and a sad mind, we had to leave this beautiful place.  We drove through the Kings Highway – the most scenic road in Jordan. To find the lost city of Petra. Fabled to be beautified by the ancient people of Nabatean.

The lore of Petra

It appears that a nomadic tribe known as the Nabateans began migrating gradually from Arabia during the sixth century BCE.  Over time, they abandoned their nomadic ways and settled in a number of places in southern Jordan, the Naqab desert in Palestine, and in northern Arabia.  Although Petra was inhabited by the Edomites before the arrival of the Nabateans, the latter carved grandiose buildings, temples, and tombs out of solid sandstone rock. They also constructed a wall to fortify the city, although Petra was almost naturally defended by the surrounding sandstone mountains.

Building an empire in the arid desert also forced the Nabateans to excel in water conservation. They were highly skilled water engineers and irrigated their land with an extensive system of dams, canals, and reservoirs.

The buildings in the stones where so intricately carved so magically that all the cultures that came after the Nabateans decided to keep the city for themselves and build their own pieces into it.  Creating a spectacular sight, with engineering marvels and artistic beauty.

However,  Petra’s importance declined as sea trade routes emerged, and after a 363 earthquake destroyed many structures. The Byzantine Era witnessed the construction of several Christian churches, but the city continued to decline.  The city that used to house tens of thousands of people became a city hidden in the heart of the mountains and known only to the living nomad tribes of Bedouin.  It remained unknown to the world until it was rediscovered in 1812 by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt by share luck.  Once again became the center of the world, the marvel of architecture and the mystery of the world that is still now.

The destined meeting

When we reached Petra we stayed in Little Petra with a 17th son whose father was the first to accept travelers into his cave.  Our host moved out of the cave for a simple reason – a wife from the city. But on a regular basis, he still goes to his cave to spent time away from the noise and the twisted minds of the people.

After resting for a while and having tea with the host we took off to visit Petra. Before we left the host showed us a special trail to follow for the best view on the first day.

As in any place, you might notice some scams going on. The locals offer you a free ride which “is included in the ticket” for the whole 10M. After which they ask you to pay money to continue the ride.  And even if you pay to have a horse ride it is not worth it. Simple because you have a 1.2km of a beautiful hike through the gorge that opens up to the most beautiful view – the treasury.

Even the amount of people that were there were not an issue. The marvel is simply out of this world.

The walk through the lane of the history of many many cultures leaves you wondering about the meaning of life.  As all the magnificent spots and expeditions there has to be something strange happening.

While we were trekking through the secret trail to the top of the mountain we have met 2 local Bedouins living at the top of the mountain.

Who shared with us some tea, lunch and a few words of wisdom. Which led us to some deep thoughts of over own.

We were so entranced in the thoughts and the secrets of life that the Bedouins shared.  Which I will share in the separate entree!

The way back

Once we came back from our thoughts we were already on the way out and off to eat the best kebab and shawarma on the whole trip.

From misty red dunes to painting like passages dotted with rocks and mountains. To see the ancient hieroglyphics left by Nabataeans, the fabled T.E. Lawrence House, the canyons and naturally formed phenomena the arks, wind polished stones, and most importantly the serenity that the desert brings.

When we left our camp the visage of the desert was glimmering red in the morning light of the sun flanked by an avenue of cliffs. The surrounding cliffs looked like large rocks formed from wax that are constantly melting during the day and hardening during the night. Creating spectacular formations and valleys that morph into a magnificent gallery of sound and illustration. The hollowness of the desert at times dampers all sounds around you and at other times with the help of the wind magnifies all sounds around you – from the sand grinding against each other to the rustling of the leaves to the sound of the conversation.

No matter the spot we went to explore the serenity and the beauty followed us.

The final moment, the final stop we had was to say goodbye to the sun on one of the wax-like mountains. We overlooked the valley waiting for the sunset enjoying the sunlight playing on the red sand with a witchery uncommon to the modern world. We sat on the rock, admiring the glorious luster of the desert. The dale fell confessional quiet. I had an alleluia moment then and yearned for a time when the world was young. However, I was more than happy for the friends and girlfriend I have now to share the beauty of the world.

With a sigh, I got up and forged my way towards our guide who has been waiting by the carriage to take us back to the camp for one final night in this magical desert. It was a place with an eldritch beauty all of its own. I resolved to return one day to this paradise.

Author & Photographer

Simonas Radkevicius – https://www.instagram.com/sim_rad/

Photographers

Arune Meistaite – https://www.instagram.com/arunemei/

Mantas Alisauskas – http://ctdots.eu/

P.s. Pictures are all originals. If you would like to copy or use them you have to get a permission from the authors.

P.s.s. Other entries in this trip can be found here: 

• Part 1 http://numi.world/jordan-series-adventures-in-aqaba/
• Part 2 http://numi.world/jordan-series-wadi-rum-the-hidden-desert/
• Part 4 http://numi.world/jordan-series-petra-the-lost-city/
• Part 5 http://numi.world/jordan-series-the-secret-smugglers-route-to-petra-2/
• Part 6 http://numi.world/the-wonders-of-the-jordan-north-dead-sea-jerash-and-amman/

From what we know – the stories and recaps from the people, the historic scripts and legends Wadi Rum has been inhabited by many cultures since prehistoric times, including the Nabataeans that left their mark in the form of rock paintings, graffiti, and temples. Kingdoms and people used to come here for the abundance of springs and wild game in the desert.

Surprisingly it did not take to much time for our expeditionary caravan to find the outskirts of the Wadi Rum desert. Before we left for the trip to Wadi Rum we heard from the locals that it is not advisable for the Red Sea deep explorers to do the voyage on the same day as diving. Because the altitude goes right away from 6M to 1600M above sea level. The explorers of the deep can easily catch the eeriness of the mountains and get mountain sickness.

Our trip took us through the outskirts of the desert, across the railway which local Bedouins and T.E Lawrence blew up during the uprising against the Turkish. The same railway that required to cut a large number of trees in Jordan just to build it. All the way through the hot desert until we reached the hidden Bedouin village that is guarding the heart of this wonderful dessert. From here you join the local Bedouins going to their campsites.

It is best to have prearranged your stay with one of the local Bedouin to be waiting for you before even arriving. To save time and to know exactly where you are going. We did it using a well-established system of connections – Booking.com. The moment we stopped and got off our caravan the local Bedouin was already waiting for us.

The Bedouins are not the only inhabitants of the wadi rum. This desert is not like the one we hear with sand and dunes everywhere you look. It has over 160 species of plants that belong to almost 50 different plant families:

• About 7 of them are useful as a source of wood
• Over 30 species used for medicinal purposes
• Some 15 we avoid as they are known to be poisonous
• Around 50 are a source of food for different species of animals including our livestock
• 6 plants are endemic

We saw maybe 3 different plants during the 3-day stay.!

Without giving a moment of rest we joined their caravan (a jeep) and went through the vast expanse of the desert to his small campsite.

The views we saw, even now when I write I can see them. The only problem is to describe them. The deserts and the mountain tops that are visible creates a magnificent feeling and illusion that captivates the travelers to simply stay silent and be in awe. It is a place that brings serenity to your soul and peace to your mind. The quietness for the most part and hypnotizing views leave few unimpressed.

The moment we arrived at the camp that was located in a remote area far away from any other tribal campsites. Located in a small corner between the mountains to have a shade from the sun during hot summer days.

We were greeted with tea and snacks. For it is their creed-rooted in the harshness of desert life-that no traveler is turned away. According to Bedouin traditions, the host does not inquire about the guest’s personal information or the reason behind the visit for the first three days as it was considered rude. Of course, this has slightly changed with the arrival of tourist for business purposes but you can still feel it. We did not talk about our next day trip until the last moment right before we went to sleep.

If you were wondering who are the Bedouin or Bedu well they are a grouping of nomadic Arab people who have historically inhabited the desert regions in North Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, and the Levant. The English word bedouin comes from the Arabic badawī, which means “desert dweller”, and is traditionally contrasted with ḥāḍir, the term for sedentary people. Bedouin territory stretches from the vast deserts of North Africa to the rocky sands of the Middle East. They are traditionally divided into tribes. Historically, the Bedouin engaged in nomadic herding, agriculture and sometimes fishing. A major source of income was the taxation of caravans, and tributes collected from non-Bedouin settlements. They also earned income by transporting goods and people in caravans across the desert.

After resting for a short while we decided to explore the desert before good night sleep. We walked for a better half an hour until we reached a crossroad where we thought we could see the sunset well.

After climbing and fooling around on the nearby rocks we waited for the sun to come down. Sadly it was not as great of the spot for a sunset, as we thought. But none the less it was serene.

Once we arrived at our camp the Bedouin dinner was waiting for us. When it comes to the culinary delights of the desert, the wadi is well-known for a meal that is cooked underground called “Zarb”. Which in turn, if taken out too late turns the chicken dry. “Zarb is a centuries-old method of cooking, where the Bedouins place food on coal and cover it for two to three hours,”. Afterward, we were delighted by some local music.

We have decided to have an early night just so we could wake up at 2 am in hope of seeing phenomena of the sky the milky way. We slept in an authentic Bedouin tent. The Bedouin tents are distinctive by its black color with white stripes. For a medium-sized tent, it is required two years to be woven, usually by the woman they usually use goat hair and camel lint that provides a good shelter even during rainfall.

However, the moon was shining too bright denying us the right to see the beauty that I have dreamed since my explorations of Bolivia.

However, the dead silence in the night was a surprise we did not expect. The silent high pitched ring in the ears the only sound that you could hear if you stay quiet and the total darkness that can hide anyone 2 meters from you. It is both scary and elegant. Another beauty of the desert. After this fantastic experience, we decided to sleep for the exploration of the mystical Wadi Rum awaits us tomorrow.

P.s. Pictures are all originals. If you would like to copy or use them you have to get a permission from the authors.

P.s.s. Other entries in this trip can be found here: 

• Part 1 http://numi.world/jordan-series-adventures-in-aqaba/
• Part 3 http://numi.world/jordan-series-wadi-rum-the-exploration/
• Part 4 http://numi.world/jordan-series-petra-the-lost-city/
• Part 5 http://numi.world/jordan-series-the-secret-smugglers-route-to-petra-2/
• Part 6 http://numi.world/the-wonders-of-the-jordan-north-dead-sea-jerash-and-amman/